Raised eyebrows and tales of doom

Scoresby Sund Expedition 2022

Day 31. 11th July 2022

Position: Moored Torshavn

Weather: The usual

Oh dear, something missing here

I’ve just had to move from my perfect berth to the trickiest little nook in the harbour. A dismasted yacht was being towed in by the lifeboat and needed my nice spot. It didn’t seem too windy last night but maybe it was stronger offshore but yachts with their masts blown off aren’t too great for the morale.

Now that I am lying alongside the harbour wall, I get a few more visitors. Brigir Enni (?) called by to say hello. He has retired as Captain of the Nordlys, but quickly recognised the little Sumara. We first met him after sailing here direct from Spitsbergen, now that was the journey from hell.

From other visitors I’ve heard tales of impending doom. “I remember being on a ship off the north coast of Iceland when suddenly the barometer fell, and we were struck by mountainous waves and huge sea monsters” was the kind of thing. “Small boat for these waters” would be observed. People would then wish you well with wishes that had little tags: “Take care, and I really mean that”. It’s all slightly unnerving. I think I need Ullapool Dan to issue forth with one of his “It’ll all be fine!” uplifting greetings.

SAS Airlines are on strike so Jannicke left this morning and Torsten arrives this evening, a day later than the plan. I now have the day to myself. Despite having the finest crew in the world, it is still nice to have the boat to yourself. I can really make a mess!

On our walk we saw this nesting eider duck
There is a stone lectern high on the hills with a natural amphitheatre where the Faroese held meetings
One of the historic buildings at our destination
Inside the hall

As we had an extra day, and Torshavn pretty much closes down on Sundays, Jannicke organised an excellent hike over to the other side of the island. All told about 10 miles, it was a good leg stretch. The constant fog and rain didn’t really matter “…good clothes etc” but we did miss what could only have been spectacular views. In the evening our favourite Craft Beer Bar was closed so we went to a place with a sticky floor and incense burning to cover an indescribable smell. While we sat by the door three separate people tripped up on the door mat until Jannicke moved it outside. Our last meal onboard was a big pasta affair using all the ingredients that were close to going off, we slept well after the walk (and beer).

And if you don’t believe how strong the wind is over here, this is a picture of a waterfall going uphill!

Technical Stuff

The Eberspacher is playing up. I am sure it is the controller so I have ordered a new one for Ray to bring out.

Rust is appearing on a lot of 316 grade stainless steel, Very weird indeed. Any ideas why? Could there be sulphur in the rain?

I have just collected 20 L of diesel from the fuel berth. The kind people from Glasgow lent me their little trolley to save me tearing out my arm sockets.

I need to send an advance form to Iceland with all the boat and crew details. Then when we arrive it is only a matter of giving them the yacht name and they match up the form. Seems a sensible idea.


Jannicke’s delayed flight has just been cancelled. How useless can these airline companies get!

3 responses to “Raised eyebrows and tales of doom”

  1. I know nothing about the Eberspacher, but I had devotional reverence for the controller of my Refleks diesel stove. Had it sent to Denmark for servicing, it came back no different than before. In the end I decided it was time to graduate from the Refleks academy and unscrewed it: It was surprisingly simple. Since that first time I had to open it and fiddle with it let’s say once every three or four times I use the stove (that’s stuff made for fishermen, doesn’t like to work on a heel…).
    I guess it is anyway good to have a spare one, so that you can play with it!

    Good luck with the weather, it’ll all be fine…

  2. Im not Dan. But it will all be fine. You and Sumara are more than capable. It will be good.

  3. Jannickes flight today is not cancelled yet and it may just be my imagination but it’s looking brighter. I can see nearby grass moving in the wind rather than flattened as it was earlier
    Don’t worry about bad weather in the good ship. She is like a cork on the water, super strong and buoyant. The captain is prepared for any eventuality too. So I agree with Ullapool.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.