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I’m a professional semaphore operator

Sunday, April 21st, 2013

20th April Chichester Marina.

At last, a sunny weekend to get on with the much delayed maintenance on Sumara. There is ice on the deck but that should burn off soon. Yesterday I got on with “opening up the wounds” by sanding back all the little areas of damage to the varnish so that the patches can have a good build up of coats before one or two full coats get applied.

The reason everything is so late is because my broken arm is still not in full action. I am normally very lucky as it makes no difference to me if I use my left or right hand so I never get tired sanding or varnishing. I simply swop hands. Working with only my left hand is seriously slow. Every hour or so it gets very tired and needs a change of tasks.

I have had to pull out of the Maldon Mud Race on strict doctors orders which is a huge shame. All my general training has gone out the window, I can’t ride a bike or go for a swim but I have started some gentle running again.

When you meet the doctor after a breaking bone they ask you what you do. I said that I could carry out most of my work tasks because they involved mainly sitting at a desk. I’ve since been told that was a bad move as they are liable to repair you quicker if your work depends on your arm. Its too late now, but next time I going to say I’m a professional semaphore operator. To be fair on the NHS, they have been pretty good and I have loads of physio excersises to do each day so hopefully by the end of the summer I’ll be able to get back to normal.

It’s the big ski race day!

Monday, February 18th, 2013

My Broken Arm after the Swelling had gone down

17th February 2013

As usual before a race I tend to detect little pains in my body and I noticed a nagging little ache in my knee. I rubbed in a bit of Ibruprufen gel and packed a few pills in case it played up. Last night we were shown by Svarte how to race wax our skis. This involved stripping the old wax off with a paraffin like liquid and sanding the grip area with some 80 grit sandpaper. The glide wax was applied hot in blobs then smoothed with a hot iron and once hardened most was scraped off again. A final addition of liquid speed gel was applied to make the skis super slippery. The temperature was predicted to be minus 10 and rising to minus 4 so a very sticky grip wax was applied to the grip area and heated with the iron. Then two more layers of cooler temperature wax were applied and cold smoothed and finally a liquid grip wax was added. This took a good few hours. Waxing is neither an art or a science according to Svarte but a religion!

Our taxi arrived to take us to the start. Embarrassingly the “English”  contingent were announced to all. We signed in, got our bibs, grabbed a coffee and headed up the hill to the start line. Charlotte was in for a chance but statistically Grit and I didn’t really stand a chance of finishing in day light and that probably meant we would get timed out (hence we were the only ones carrying rucksacks with sandwiches, water, belay jackets and torches!).

The start banner was raised and off we went. Cleverly we started at the back and I was the last over the start line. Soon the main fleet of skiers were leaving us behind and it wasn’t long before they were out of sight – and that included Charlotte. We plodded on and were thrilled to see number 116 around the next bend. The early part of the race was quite hilly. I felt that I had mastered some of the techniques (in a naff amateur way) including the diagonal stride and double poling. Even the double pole kick was doing ok and I have always loved going uphill. My problem has always been going downhill with cross country skis. I feel pretty much at the mercy of the tracks. It wasn’t great news when we reached the prow of a hill that looked like it was going to be very fast indeed. I suppose most of the racer would love it but not me. So off I pushed and accelerated to a speed well in excess of my skill level and eventually the inevitable happened and I crashed. Sadly it wasn’t a nice soft crash but a rock hard one and I realised I had done something not good to my arm. It really hurt and I thought that just 4km in I would have to pull out. However I found that if I left my right arm dangling I could make some progress with just my left pole. So Grit and I carried on even slower than usual. At 10km we got to the first drink station and hobbled on. The countryside was truly beautiful and with fine weather it made a great day out.

Then an amazing thing happened. We saw 116 in the distance and started to catch up. Finally we overtook our first racer! Very late we arrived at the second drinks station at about 18km. They were keen that we stopped but after some persuasion we managed to get clearance to continue. Now here is a funny thing. You would have thought it was not possible to get lost on a cross country ski marathon because you simply follow the tracks. Grit called out “Do you recognise this?”. As it happened I didn’t I didn’t so we continued. Then I saw the unmistakeable sign of my old ski tracks – going straight into the soft snow at a sharp corner. We were doing a loop! There wasn’t much option but to continue. Now my arm was seriously hurting and without my second pole I would occasionally fall causing a shriek on pain. We plodded on into the evening and eventually the organisers ski doo arrived behind us clearing the track. It was harder now because the beautiful tracks had been destroyed with ski doos out on their Sunday runs. The organiser seemed happy to slowly hang on behind as we picked off the miles. With about three kilometres to go to our third drink station I fell right onto my arm again and the pain was pretty bad. I decided to call it a day. We had made a good go of it ad you can’t do better than your best. The kind ski doo driver got us into his trailer and we sadly made the last few kilometres under power.

Now, we thought we were arriving at the third drinks station at 28km and I was surprised the see Charlotte there. I asked her how she got there and indignantly replied “by skis!”. We had arrived at the finish but seemed to have missed the 10km loop around Olle’s track but added our own loop.

We had a grand reception by the kind and very patient organisers but I soon realised my hand and shoulder were badly swollen. Svarte kindly drove us to the hospital were the x-rays showed I had fractured my humorous. Now I am dosed up with pain killers, my arm in a sling on my way to Stockholm, having said our sad farewells to Charlotte and Svarte who had been our amazing hosts for the week.

Plymouth to Dartmouth

Monday, August 27th, 2012

Julie and Paul in Dartmouth

Plymouth Breakwater Eastern Channel

26th August 2012 Log 8744 Approx. Distance 38nm

Grit caught the train back to London on Saturday morning and Gudrun was coming down in the evening.  It rained stair rods all day so I wasn’t missing out on anything. A few boaty jobs got done and then I donned full foul weather gear to meet Gudrun at the station. We had a meal in The Bridge restaurant in the marina which was good and had an early night. In the morning the rain had stopped and it was wall to wall sunshine. Amazingly, hardly any boats were stirring and we set off to the Plymouth breakwater without a yacht in sight. As usual my grib files looked good but the forecast was more threatening. We were heading for Salcombe originally but I was worried that we wouldn’t be able to get out if the weather closed in. So we sailed past Bolt Head with a pleasant F3 South wind by now accompanied by many other yachts. Start point was calm so we cut the corner through the tide rips. I took out the pole as we rounded up on a port tack for the entrance to Dartmouth. We dropped the main while there was plenty of sea room and continued under Yankee until the wind died in the shelter of the hills. It was about 1530 GMT. I radioed Dartnav on Channel 11 and the friendly staff allocated us a berth on a floating mid-stream pontoon. There are flukey currents in the Dart and we changed our approach to head east dispite the ebb tide. On springs this river can have quite a powerful stream. Once moored, Julie and Paul kayaked out to meet us. We showed them around the little ship and chatted about kayaking and life in general over a glass of wine in the cockpit. Later we mooched together around town and had a healthy meal in (I think) Taylors with some very vivid floral wallpaper. Later we parted, Gudrun and I got the River Taxi back to Sumara after a busy and very pleasant day. Log 8773

Aberystwyth towards Falmouth

Wednesday, August 22nd, 2012

Aberystwyth showing Robin and Rosie waving us off despite Sumara still being moored in the harbour!

Jannicke in Aberystwyth

Log 8498 Distance approx 230nm
Grit and I arrived in Aber (as they call it) on Thursday 17th August to have a day preparing and provisioning before setting off towards Falmouth. We went to the Christopher Williams exhibition again where I was surprised to meet Jannicke (I’ll put up a nice picture of her later). In the morning we were greeted by Robin and Rosie who are best friends of Terry, who made Sumara. Robin said he had seen her as a log cut through as planks and he gave a hand casting the keel. We needed to catch the tide so unfortunately couldn’t spend long with them. Robin saw the Scottish Three Peaks sticker on the hull and said he had done the Tilman Three Peaks three times and I should try it! Mnnn, maybe.
We set off at high water-ish with a favourable tide. Robin and Rosie were at the pier head to wave us off. The forecast was a bit uncertain in terms of wind strength but for sure it would be a beat the whole way. Definitely SW or S winds between F3 and 6. We waved goodbye to Aber, a lovely town with plenty to do, and tacked off away from “The Patches” to get a long board down the coast before tacking again a few times to clear St Davids Head. It was spring tides and they run at 4 – 5 kts off St Davids so we were keen to give it a wide berth. We headed for a waypoint between the Smalls and the shipping lanes. The shipping lanes can be quite an obstruction to yachts adding considerable mileage and spoiling advantageous tacks. In this case a wind shift acted in our favour and we managed to slip past the south corner by using a little bit of engine to assist us as the wind had nearly failed.
Across the Bristol Channel the wind varied in strength but was never too strong, one reef was needed at one point but then the genoa was hoisted.

Grit en route to St Davids Head

I was up a lot whilst we sailed around St Davids so it was good to catch up on some snooze. We were making almost south in the SW breeze and after two days or so we reached a point on the coast near to St Ives.

Sailing Off St Ives

Here I hoped to pick up a sea breeze by staying inshore and also I also wanted to catch a reverse tide which proved elusive.We were going to try to use the favourable tide on Monday evening to round Lands End. We were making 4-5 kn SOG but very little boat speed. I was looking forward to easing the sheets after so much windward work but when we reached Longships to bear away we were stuffed by slack winds and needed to motor. The tide here runs strong, very strong. It shifted against us one hour before prediction and there was no twelve’s rule here. It pretty much stopped us dead at one point shifting sidewards in a fierce tide rip towards the rocks. The little Kubota 12 hp did some sterling work and eventually after a long unpleasant struggle we broke free. The wind returned and we romped towards Lizard picking up a favourable tide. Although we gave the headland three miles offing with this spring tide there was still a very confused sea.

 

Falmouth Marina

Soon Falmoth was in sight and we moored safely in the visitor marina at 1138 on Tuesday morning. Cost £21.00 per night. Fair price for spotless showers with piped Radio 2 (?)! Log 8710.

Olympic Traffic Restrictions

Monday, August 13th, 2012

Ha Ha Road Closed

Although I fully accept the need for certain traffic restrictions during the Olympics,

the thing that got my back up was the sheer pleasure the authorities took in making the road closures.

So far, so good!

Tuesday, August 9th, 2011

Position N62,01.386 x W017,04.007. Wind SW Force 3. Sunny
At last we were able to turn off the engine and hoist the genoa. We have been making 4kts in the right direction through the night with 361nm left to go before getting to St Kilda. Yesterday afternoon the topping lift chafed through and trailed in the sea. I had to go up the mast to replace it. With the swell rocking the boat it is quite exciting clinging to the top of a 38ft mast with one hand while the other tries to thread a rope through a pulley. We treated ourselves to a tuna pasta diner and some Melvin Bragg to celebrate. Last night
I was joined by a small pod of pilot whales who were very entertaining.
Sadly the Grib weather information is telling us about a depression leaving Newfoundland and heading our way. The latest chart shows it deepening rapidly on Saturday just
as we would hope to arrive at St Kilda. We will try to monitor it, maybe it will drift off northwards. On these long North Atlantic passages you are almost certain to get clobbered by a gale at some point. We will prepare in advance and treat it like “A simple and manageable job” – “En enkel og overkomelig jobb”.

Thembi arrived in Ullapool at midnight after a cracking sail through the Summer Isles. We all really enjoyed Thembi’s company (and climbing skills) on the trip. I should imagine the Argyll Pub will be busy tonight. I think we have made some lasting friendships after an adventure like this one has been.

Later today we are going to have some shooting practice if it says calm. Now I can hear the
rhythmic deep tone of the foghorn going off every 5 seconds – oh no, its just Ray snoring.

Sent at 08.07GMT 9th August

Vestmannaeyjar Islands

Sunday, August 7th, 2011

Position N63,26 x W20,16. Heimaey Harbour. Calm
Well we made it, but only just. After we rounded Reykjanes Penisular the wind became light and we needed to motor to make any worthwhile progress. Gradually the wind increased and we were able to sail again but it was an easterly and the sea was more lumpy than you would expect from the lightish wind. Very slow progress was made. A forecast of easterly 18m/s came through on the Navtex for the local sea area. The wind and the sea increased until a very dark line of clouds started to approach just as our lamb diner was being served up. A squally force 6 to 7 hit us and we needed a couple of urgent deep reefs in the main. The sea got up and we were debating the possibility of running off south then heading to Scotland. Under the current conditions with large breaking waves a landfall would have been dangerous. I was pretty determined to get to the Westmann Islands so we opted to tack north towards the Iceland coast for two or three hours and see what happens. As we closed in on the dangerous indistinguishable south coast the wave conditions improved and Sumara made reasonable progress although our velocity made good was only about 1 knot. We plugged on through the night, tack after tack in wet and lumpy conditions until the wind eventually moderated slightly. The rocks around the Islands were now in sight and eventually we saw the lights of Heimaey Harbour between the two volcanoes. So long as the wind remained as it was we would be able to make landfall. After 39 hrs at sea and only a few hours sleep we moored up in Heimaey at 0500 rather wet and tired.
We grabbed a few hours sleep and went into the town for breakfast, which in my case was coffee and delicious but extravagant peppered monkfish, before climbing the brand new volcano.

On top of the still hot Fire Mountain “Eldell”

This was the famous one which erupted in 1973 and caused the whole island to be evacuated by a fleet of fishing boats and ferries. The lava flowed down into the sea and towards the town. Many of the houses were engulfed but the major worry was that the crucial harbour would be blocked.

Lava engulfs a house in Heimaey

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The determined islanders found that by spraying the hot lava with sea water it cooled and solidified. Hundreds of large pumps were put into action and the harbour was saved. In fact the new land formed has made it an even safer harbour. The volcano erupted for five months covering the town with many metres of hot volcanic dust. Many believed the island would never be inhabitable again but the islanders were sure they could make it home again. With the help of volunteers from 19 countries they dug out the town, swept up, painted the houses and got back to work. 10% of the Icelandic fishing haul is from Heimaey so it is an important fishing centre. The people here really battle with nature. The south tip of the island is one of the windiest places in the world with only four calm days a year.
The top of the new volcano is still hot and steam ouzes out of the hillside. The view over the town is spectacular with the new land formed by lava clearly visible. After the climb Gudrun and I headed for the swimming pool and hot tub. Ray has sadly got a bit of a cold coming on and is trying to take things easy until it goes away.
We watched a volcano film in the evening!

Ray and Gudrun take coffee while everything dries out.

 

Beautiful Snaefellsjokull from Reykjanes Peninsular

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now it is 0800 on Sunday morning and the sun is out. I haven’t checked the weather forecast yet but we hope to set sail tonight after doing all the chores.

Louise Bourgeois

Saturday, July 30th, 2011

“Bursting Body” 1948 – Louise Bourgeois.

Tim and I went to the Island National Gallery on Thursday. There was an exhibition by Louise Bourgeois and some of her pieces felt strangely familiar. There were disturbing nightmarish shapes. Many were ghastly un-namely things of no colour and some were puce. Frightening bulging shapes bursting out. Then I remembered Tim’s splendid duff that we had last night!

Denmark Straight

Wednesday, July 20th, 2011

Position N66,27.868 x W025,54.99. Dense Fog
Sadly we have decided to abandon our attempt to get to Greenland. A grib weather file was
showing really strong winds approaching the area of coast that we proposed to try to make landfall. As it was by no means certain that the ice would have cleared enough to gain shelter it would have put us at risk of being amongst ice in a gale. A later grib file showed an improved situation but our Ice Charts were giving us a lot of ice to the north. It was all looking too dodgy. The good news is that Thembi have just encountered their first bergy bits and we are in hot pursuit. The fog here is very dense so we are creeping along very slowly.
After we have had a mooch around we will run off to Iceland, probably Olafsvik or maybe Patreksfjord. We cant afford to hang around too long or we will end up beating into quite strong headwinds. There is talk of another “Hill Walk” and I see Snaefellsjokull is 1446m high.

Stop Press: Here comes the ice!

Sent at 11.57GMT on 20th July 2011

The Latest Cunning Plan

Friday, July 15th, 2011

N68,41 x W014,34. Calm
Now we are motoring through a slight sea and I’ve been thinking!
We certainly haven’t given up on Greenland yet. It was always going to be the icing on the cake but I’m rather found of icing. So the latest rouse is as follows: We arrive in Isafjordur on 16th July. John has to catch a flight from Reykjavik on the 21st so he will get an internal flight to the main airport. Hopefully Thembi will arrive in Isafjordur too. Maybe Sarah will be there too? Sounds like a party. If Sumara (and Thembi?) both leave by the 19th and head for Kangerlussuaq which is only 240nm away it should take us about three days to get there. If the ice is still too thick then we will just have to turn back but hopefully we will be able to get to an anchorage recommended by Siggi and used by Suhali for the Bonnington/Knox Johnston expedition. The fjord is generally heavily iced up but this anchorage is protected by small islets and reefs which stop the icebergs getting in. It is meant to be an amazing place. We would have to leave on the 25th (maybe 26th) to ensure Charlotte gets her flight from Iceland.

I think it is a plan and I think it is a good plan!

Sent at 04.16GMT on 14th July